staying in tune....

I have a fender strat and I'm having the toughest time trying to keep the damn thing in tune. I have a good guitar tuner and know how to tune it but maybe I'm playing to hard, soft, wrong... maybe I'm just retarded and should stick to listening instead of playing but every time I pick up my axe and play for 5 min.. I have to tune again.

Ideas, thoughts, arsenic?

thanks!

That old saying about "a poor workman blames his tools" does not always apply to guitar players. Put the arsenic away. :) Your axe needs the attention of a good tech.

A tremolo bar will cause problems for any Strat, but there are ways to minimize the effects. Even a hard-tail can have problems, if the strings are getting 'pinched' by the nut slots. A simple test for this condition is to press on a string between the nut and the tuner. The pitch should go sharp, and then come back into tune when you release the pressure. If it stays sharp, tension is being 'stored' between the nut and the tuner. This diference in tension will slowly even out with the rest of the string, changing the pitch. Heavy bends, (or tremolo action) will have the same result.

... I just thought of something else. Did you just install a new set of strings? You need to stretch them a bit when you put them on, or they will tend to go flat for a while, until they settle in.

To prevent this, change out one string at a time, starting with the high E. Bring it up to match the pitch of the B string. Then gently pull it up, away from the body of the guitar. Don't yank on it so hard that you break the string, just lift it until you notice it getting tighter. The pitch of the string will drop quite a bit. Re-tune it to B, and pull it some more. The pitch won't drop quite as much this time. Re-tune, and pull it some more, repeating this process until the pitch pretty much stays the same. Then tune the string to proper E pitch and change out the B string. Tune it to match the G string and do the pull-and-retune stuff again. Do this with the rest of the strings. The low E can be tuned to low B by using the high B string as a reference.

I hope this helps.

Actually, I just got a new set of DR strings that I wanted to try out and I think I'm going to put them on tonight. Thanks for the advice I will try it. Question tho.. when re-stringing, how much should be wound around the peg? I don't wanna put the whole string on the peg and it wasn't that way when I bought it. Is there an easy way to tell how much to wrap? Thanks again.. I really appreciate the help.

If you have too much string wrapped around the peg, it will tend to 'creep', giving the same stored-tension kind of hassle as a 'pinching' nut. The highest string should have 4-6 wraps around the peg. Less than 4 risks breakage due to tension being concentrated on the sharp bend through the peg hole or slot. More than 6 gets into 'creepy' territory. As the strings get bigger, you can reduce the number of turns. The low E is usually good with 2 turns.

Be sure to 'lock' the strings at the tuner post. I don't feel that I can describe this well in text. This is one of those things you need to get someone to show you.

If the strings are heavier guage than what the nut was fitted for, its gonna pinch. Try that press-and-release thing before you do anything else. Don't waste a new set of strings if the nut needs to be opened up a bit. You can take the strings with you when you bring the guitar in for a setup.

Thanks! I've heard about "locking" the string at the peg.. I've even found a good web page that shows this but it's been taken down (just checked it) but it shows putting extra string thru the hole in the peg and then wrapping a small portion of the loose end round the other end of the string (if that makes sense) and it's actually how it was strung when I bought it. The strings are the same gauge as what was on it so I'm hoping that it won't be a problem with that but I'll check to make sure. I guess the only way is to have someone show me in person or go the "trial and error" route. I'm just dying to try the DR strings.. A friend had recommended Elixr but they were out of them and the dude in the store said to give these a shot.....

Again, thanks! First day on the site and it's already been a tremendous help!

You're welcome! (As a new member too!) :D

3 words. Sperzel Locking Tuners.
They come on the Parker Fly Deluxe, which I own, and they are amazing for keeping the guitar in tune. I've had it for 8 days and checked the tuning and it is still perfect.
If you can afford them(I actually dont know the price at all since they came with the guitar)and get them installed I would recommend them to anyone.

Thanks! A buddy bought a Fender strat that had them (or something similar) installed on it but I never thought about doing that. If anyone is interested here's a link for them. They're $49 for a 3 a side set and $59 for 6 in a row... at least it was today! =)
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/search/detail/base_pid/361012/sourceid=00345506435264759982

Locking tuners (like Sperzels) prevent creepage problems at the tuner, but do nothing to address tension storage between the tuner and the nut. If you have the tuners installed by a tech, the nut will also get checked out. Its a good idea to have a complete setup done while you're at it.

New strings take a while to break in on a Strat. You'll have to retune occasionally (after bending etc). "G" string always goes out first from bending. Strings stretch - basic mechanics. Hot/cold temp changes will also raise havoc on you're tuning.
Little "trick" for new strings - overtune a half turn or so, then bring the string back down (sharp to flat) into tune.
Lastly, as others have already posted, stay away from the trem bar on a strat - you're guaranteed to knock out the tuning....That's why Floyd Rose has a patent on the double locking trem...
-Bob