Beginner, string advice


JJVogel
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JJVogel
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03/24/2020 10:14 pm

I've always wanted to learn to play guitar, picked up an acoustic/ electric guitar years ago , then put it down. Decided now is the time to suceed and get this. Hoping 46 isn't to old to learn. I did have a question I was hoping someone might have an answer to. I need to change the strings( and beside being nervous about doing that) I'm wondering if anyone has advice to the best type of string a beginner should get for an acoustic / electric. Any and all device is appreciated! JV


# 1
manXcat
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manXcat
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03/24/2020 11:41 pm

46 isn't too old to learn. See my string advice already proffered in your alternate enquiry post.


# 2
JeffS65
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JeffS65
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03/25/2020 1:50 pm
Originally Posted by: john.j.vogel7

I've always wanted to learn to play guitar, picked up an acoustic/ electric guitar years ago , then put it down. Decided now is the time to suceed and get this. Hoping 46 isn't to old to learn. I did have a question I was hoping someone might have an answer to. I need to change the strings( and beside being nervous about doing that) I'm wondering if anyone has advice to the best type of string a beginner should get for an acoustic / electric. Any and all device is appreciated! JV

If you can, go with a lighter guage string. I just bought my wife, a beginner, a Martin Mini and had it set up with a set of '10' guage (lighter) string. It's easier for her to play. it's easier on your fingers too. I may go lighter on my Taylor. I like the lighter guage now.

However, if the guage is lighter guage than what is currently on the guitar, you'll want to be sure that the neck tension (truss rod) is adjusted for the new strings. Your guitar is a balance between the tension of the strings and the neck's tendency to bend which is based on how much tension stress the neck is being placed by the strings.Think of the strings as the string on a bow & arrow bow when the string pulls tension on the bow. The guitar string does the same thing. The truss rod that goes down the length of the neck inside the middle of the neck is a metal rod used to offset that string tension. So if you change from heavier strings to lighter guage, you'll want to be sure that is adjusted to balance things out.

This is to say that you may want to invest in have the strings changed by a profession guitar tech at a store and pay for a setup job. That way the string change and playability will be optimal and particularly for a beginner.

Why did I not say an actual brand? Because, as a berginner, the differences in brands will not mean much to you. If you get a set of Phosphor Bronze from D'Addario or Elixer, that should get the job done for you.


# 3
matonanjin2
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matonanjin2
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03/25/2020 3:37 pm

"Hoping 46 isn't to old to learn."

I sure hope so also!!!! I'm only 2 1/2 decades older than you trying to learn. And there are a lot of us on here closer to my age than yours.

Good luck to you John. And, yeah, lighter strings for now.


[u]Guitars:[/u] 2014 PRS Santana, 2013 PRS Paul's, 2009 PRS Hollowbody, 1972 Gibson ES-325, 2012 Fender Strat American Standard, 2012 Yamaha Pacifica, Martin M-36, Martin 000-15M, Seagull S6 Classic[br][u]Amps:[/u] Fender Blues Junior III, Boss Eband JS-10, Line 6 POD 500X, Quilter Microblock 45

# 4
William MG
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William MG
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03/25/2020 4:17 pm

I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought lighter strings. I didn't say anything but when I took my old acoustic out of the closet last January I threw a set of 9's on it. Those 12's were absolutely killer.

Now that I have the calluses built up and more finger strength I'm back up to 12's.


This year the diet is definitely gonna stick!

# 5
manXcat
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manXcat
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03/25/2020 9:44 pm

I'll happily be out of step with the popular consensus here and stick with my previous recommendation per the alternate thread john.j.vogel7, and importantly clarify the why as being motivated by a combination of hands on experience and acquired knowledge guided by logic.

Any reputable brand is the recommendation because its (i) easy, (ii) min risk (iii) no-brainer. 12s on an acoustic if you're a average male as a suits most choice. 11s if wanting to err on the cautious side of lighter. Why? 12-53s are what the overwhelming majority of manufacturers fit to their [u]beginner orientated[/u] acoustic guitars. Think about it. Now they, like their dealers, not only want to sell guitars, but depend upon it. They particularly target beginners (fresh meat for the sales grinder), and want them to stick with it and so come back and buy another, and another from their brand regardless the 90% give up within the first 12 months retention failure rate (Fender market research specs). Guess why? Here's a tip ...[u]nothing to do with string gauge.[/u] So it's apparently obvious their marketing department of many years experience will have done their homework as to what gauge string to fit to [u]any beginner guitar[/u] which [u]will best suit most[/u], a choice which coincides with my personal experience.

12's (12-53) are [u]light[/u], literally and by common naming convention. It's what will come fitted default on most Concert body sized acoustics. Dreadnoughts, which is possibly what's in your cupboard, frequently come OOTB off the shelf with13's! If you haven't changed the strings ever, not uncommon with a cupboard player, it's possibly still fitted with those. 13's are considered mediums BTW and that's what D'Addario label them. 14s and above would be considered heavy.

I started with an 25-1/2" scale ('standard' Fender Tele/Strat scale), [u]electric[/u] with (electric) 9s and shortly afterwards bought a slimline Cutaway Concert acoustic with 12s by which time I was fully aware and appreciative of physical and technical aspects of most things guitar including hands on string gauge. I'm nearly two decades older than you and have smaller hands than average. Electrics BTW are easier to fret for a myriad of reasons I won't elaborate upon here.

Now I've sufficient wits to be not just thinking with reference to the "me" of now, and well remembering back to my perception then what worked when I was a beginner challenged with identifying where the pointy end should go. 12's were then, and are now, perfect.

Acoustic 11's (11-52s) are by convention and so named by most, [u]super-light,[/u] although D'Addario stil refer to theirs as a custom light (mix). As suggested by myself elsewhere, they're an alternative if preferring something lighter.

Necessary? You can make up your own mind, but not in my experience or considered opinion, nor I'd argue the majority of manufacturers' view who [u]set up their beginner guitars for first time buyers and fit that gauges[/u].

10's would be extra-light (D'Addario's nomenclature), perhaps a consideration for the tiny hands of kids or the more petite lady? Perhaps consider buying a nylon stringed guitar to start out with instead for fingers that fragile?

No matter which gauge string one chooses, there are contemporaneous other considerations involved in fretting any acoustic, one of [u]the most important on any acoustic being action[/u]. With nut cut and a single pre-cut all string saddle cut modification beyond the scope of most players let alone a beginner, and manufacturer's choice of fitted fret size set, there's not a lot of average end user adjustment available on an acoustic for that other than neck relief. As JeffS suggested, if you're changing gauge to lighter, because of the reduced string tension, even if the neck is currently in spec, you will need that adjusted aka a guitar set up. But you really do need to learn how to change strings yourself. It's not hard, and only hands on will teach you and bring confidence to that necessary regular task.

Other aspects besides gauge equally important to fretting often overlooked are string quality, type and age/condition. Not all acoustic strings feel the same OOTB which is why I made the specific 'no brainer, will suit most' recommendations I did. And with an acoustic Dreadnought, Concert, slimline Concert & nylon Classical acoustic along with my electrics, I've tried a few -which I play regularly, since starting out.

Acoustic or electric, gauge regardless, old/dirty/rusted/corroded or oxidised strings will feel rough, will sound dead acoustically, particularly the high E and B strings which being single strand steel, if rusted will coincidentially cut your fingers to ribbons. Worn out or old strings which have lost their elasticity can buzz or go out of tune when fretted as well as going out of tune with just playing and nothing to do with tuner stability, ending up chasing one's tail looking for another cause without realising the problem is the strings.

There's a comprehensive roundup of essential considerations. Ultimately the choice/decision is yours.


# 6
William MG
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William MG
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03/25/2020 10:05 pm

Actually they do manX, at least up here. Cant speak for other markets.

D_Addario/EZ890_85_15_Bronze_Acoustic_Guitar_Strings_Super_Light_9-45.htm

And John, just to clarify if you are interested in the lighter gauges, I threw on electrics because they were at hand and I just wanted to get comfortable with the guitar and it worked. At that stage I couldn't make a guitar sound good no matter what was on it.


This year the diet is definitely gonna stick!

# 7

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