Building an electric guitar

Okay, the build is about to begin! Need some advice again.

I have a strat type neck, 21 frets, rosewood fretboard, truss rod already installed, and a paddle head. Also is a 21 by 14 by 1 7/8th block of kiln dried ash.

I've decided on a V shape, which I have sketched out on the block, as big as I could get it (still seems more narrow than a Gibson). Looking at two TOG Turbobuckers for the pickups, a volume and two tone knobs, a 3 way switch, and strat style 1/4in plug-in. A tunomatic type bridge with ferrules going thru the body to secure the strings. The scale length is 25.5 inches.

Here's what I need to know about....haven't decided on a pickguard or not. I think a pickguard would be easier, but I would need a custom cut to match the V. OR...If I go for no pickguard (which I think I prefer) does anyone have any info on how to route the cavities for the humbuckers and pots from the back? Also, what about the mounting the pots from the back? How much thickness do I leave between the cavity bottom and the front face of the guitar? Are there pots with long arms to reach farther? Is there a place where I can get templates or something to help out with placement of everything? Which type of pot (250 or 500) should I use?

Also, I marked the spot for the tunomatic bridge at the 25.5 inch mark. How far back should I drill the holes for the strings to pass through the body? Does it make a difference? Any hints/tips on installing ferrules? seems like it would be easy to screw that up so the strings don't go though easily etc.

Lot's of question because I need lots of help, hehe. Keep in mind this guitar is my first build, the one to learn on, so I'm staying cheap and simple for the most part. I hope to wind up with a playable training guitar I can give to one of my kids and a better knowledge of what I'm doing so I can step up a bit on quality and difficulty with the next project guitar.

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I plan on taking pics and posting my progress on the forum.

GG

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer
I have a strat type neck, 21 frets, rosewood fretboard, truss rod already installed, and a paddle head. Also is a 21 by 14 by 1 7/8th block of kiln dried ash.

I've decided on a V shape, which I have sketched out on the block, as big as I could get it (still seems more narrow than a Gibson).
[/quote]

The '58 is, I think, about 17" from tip to tip. Doesn't matter if you aren't making a replica :)

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer
does anyone have any info on how to route the cavities for the humbuckers and pots from the back?
[/quote]

You won't need to route for the HB's from the back. This will be the same with or without a pickguard. You route the front and mount them in rings. You could mount them directly to the body, too, but it's still a front route. Trace your HB & make a template or purchase one. I made my first ones, but it's hard to be machine-accurate. Not as important if it's going to be covered by a ring or pickguard. My next order is going to include some pup templates.

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer
Also, what about the mounting the pots from the back? How much thickness do I leave between the cavity bottom and the front face of the guitar? Are there pots with long arms to reach farther?

Should be about 1/4 of an inch. You can get pots with longer post for this type of job.

[QUOTE=GuitardedGeezer]
Is there a place where I can get templates or something to help out with placement of everything? Which type of pot (250 or 500) should I use?

Generally speaking 250k for SC's, 500' for HB's. (Passives)

[QUOTE=GuitardedGeezer]
Also, I marked the spot for the tunomatic bridge at the 25.5 inch mark. How far back should I drill the holes for the strings to pass through the body? Does it make a difference? Any hints/tips on installing ferrules? seems like it would be easy to screw that up so the strings don't go though easily etc.

Good question as it is something I've been thinking about. I'm not sure I would go with string thru on a TOM bridge, unless I was sure the strings would not touch against the bridge on the way to the body. This was my original plan for my next guitar, but I've developed concerns about that. Maybe someone can shed some light? All I know on this is that even using a stopbar, if it's screwed down to low, the strings go down against the back of the bridge. That can't be good.

(But I know there are tons of TOM guitars out there that are string thru, I don't have one to look at. Maybe it's no big deal...?)

Alternately, there are string thru bridges, such as Fender Hardtail you could also consider.

You could try Stewart-Macdonald for some templates and also for some free information. They have calculators, for example to tell you exactly where to place your bridge and some cool stuff like that. It's a good place to start.

Stumbled on an ebay store for templates & other useful stuff. lil cheaper than SM...

http://stores.ebay.com/The-Guitar-Parts-Center_LUTHIER-TOOLS-PATTERNS_W0QQ_fsubZ12803124QQ_sidZ69752045QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Thanks Razbo,

I think I'll go ahead with the rear routed control cavity, and rings around the humbuckers. Should be interesting carving out a path for the wires from the rear routed control cavity to the front routed HBs and imput jack.

You said the Gibson V was around 17 inches wide, looks like mine will be 14 wide at the tips.

Will keep you posted,
Thanks

GG

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer
Should be interesting carving out a path for the wires from the rear routed control cavity to the front routed HBs and imput jack.

On my L6, there is no pick guard between the HB's. They actually drilled a hole between the two pups thru the middle of the body (between the back & front). I know of one way to do this, which is to use a long drill bit and go from the neck pocket right through in to the second pick up cavity. Total distance is about 5 or 6 inches. You can get long bits for this.

You said you were using a fender type jack input. I did that on my first, and just drilled at an angle from the control cavity onto the jack cavity, then cleaned it up with the dremel. Pain in the a$$, and extra work if you ask me (you have to keep unsoldering the jack to pull out the other wiring if you need to). It's probably the last Fender style jack I put into any custom build of my own. :)

Okay, I may rethink the input jack then.

How about finishes? After sealing it, I'd like a nice emerald green opaque solid color on the front, and black on the back sides and a burst effect, chrome and black hardware. I've been looking at specialized guitar finishes so finding sealer and gloss laquer is no problem but finding a color is difficult. Can't find a color match and I'd like to avoid having to mix a color myself plus I don't have airbrush equipment. Mostly I found stains and other transparent stuff. Anything wrong with a high quality paint not specifically made for guitars after the sealer and before the gloss just for color? Like imron or automotive paint? Will it screw up the sound? Does it really matter on such a cheap/beginner guitar?

GG

I wouldn't want to comment much on finishes. I've been delaying finish on mine because I am still undecided what to use. I won't bore you with my dilemmas, but basically, yes, you can use Color Tone and all kinds of brands you can buy. You can use oil or water based. You can use primer & automotive paint. You can prepare the wood a number of ways...

I know you are trying to save some $$ but Melvyn Hiscock's book How to Build an Electric Guitar http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Own-Electric-Guitar/dp/0953104907/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260235563&sr=1-1

and/or

Dan Erlewyn's Guitar Players Repair Guide
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.html

would both be worthwhile purchases. Finish is an area where I don't even have opinions yet. :)

While you're planning this out, give some careful thought to bridge height.

If you create a bit of 'layback' by sloping the neck pocket, the bridge will need to be quite a bit higher than if the pocket is parallel with the body. With the neck laid back, the bridge pup will also be set less deeply into the body. Either way of mounting the neck works just fine. Just be sure you know how everything will line up before you cut anything.

Another point to consider is that 1 7/8" body thickness vis your control pots. You will be routing the control pocket to within 1/4" of the front surface to leave material for the pots to mount in. That leaves about 1 5/8". To mount the cover on the back, you will need to rout a lip about 1/4" wide around the edge of the pocket, about 1/8" deep. That leaves about 1 1/2". Plenty of room for ordinary pots. But if you want pots with push/pull switches for Series/Parallel humbucker coil connection, or Phase switching, that may get a bit tight.

The resistance values Razbo gave you are a good starting point for the Volume pots. Be sure to get 'audio taper' pots.

Tone pots shoulf be 'linear taper', and 1 Meg, if you can find 'em. Lower values will do the job, but the 'sweet spot' is usally just below the full-on position, and 1 Meg pots give you better shot at finding it, while scrubbing off less of the treble at the max position. Back in the day, Tone pots were a special type that had an open spot in the resistive track right next to the full-clockwise terminal. This disconnected the tone capacitor completely when the knob was turned up full, so there was no reduction of the treble. Such pots are hard to fing these days, so at the fully clockwise position, that cap is still connected to the circuit through the pot. The more resistance, the less treble reduction. Rolling the pot counterclockwise reduces the resistance between the cap and the pickup, gradually letting the cap drain off more and more of the treble.

Some humbuckers need to have a 1 Meg volume pot in order to 'breathe'. 500 k is a good value to start with, but if you find it sounds a bit dark, try using a 1 Meg pot. Its an easy change, and a lot cheaper than getting different pickups.

Originally Posted by: RazboI wouldn't want to comment much on finishes. I've been delaying finish on mine because I am still undecided what to use. I won't bore you with my dilemmas, but basically, yes, you can use Color Tone and all kinds of brands you can buy. You can use oil or water based. You can use primer & automotive paint. You can prepare the wood a number of ways...

Those are both very good books! You save can yourself a lot of grief by spending some quality time studying them.

I wish I could remember the name of the stuff, but I saw a guitar that had been finished with gunstock oil. It was lovely! Sealed up watertight, brought out the grain very nicely, and there was no worry about a thick finish dulling the natural tone of the guitar. No, it wasn't sticky at all. Looked, and felt, like it had been waxed and buffed.

Originally Posted by: LordathestringsThose are both very good books! You save can yourself a lot of grief by spending some quality time studying them.

I wish I could remember the name of the stuff, but I saw a guitar that had been finished with gunstock oil. It was lovely! Sealed up watertight, brought out the grain very nicely, and there was no worry about a thick finish dulling the natural tone of the guitar. No, it wasn't sticky at all. Looked, and felt, like it had been waxed and buffed.

Tru-Oil perhaps? It's good to hear another positive experience on it! That's been my "aim" since finding out the Tung has the tackiness. I will have to go on a "hunt" for it after Christmas.

Thanks Lorda for the info on the pots and bridge height. I think I will go for a level neck, if the bridge height is too high and I can't adjust it low enough, I could stick a shim in the joint to angle it back a bit. Good heads up tho, it's something I hadn't thought of.

I'm going to route out the neck pocket this weekend. I decided to do that first, so there is some wood around the pocket to support the router. After that then I'll cut the body out and shape it. I ordered the bridge, the neck plate and screws, and all the ferrules. They should be here this week. Anybody know how to install ferrules? countersink drilling I'm guessing?

GG

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer... Anybody know how to install ferrules? countersink drilling I'm guessing?

GG

Countersinks create a tapered 'funnel' shape. You want something that leaves a square 'shelf' around the edge of the hole. The tool that does that is called a 'spot face' bit. You'll need to use it in a drill press to keep everything lined up properly. The result will be that the ferrules are recessed into the body so that they don't sit proud of the surface. Its a nice bit of detailing.

If you can't find the right size of spot facing bit to match the ferules, don't worry about it. They're made to be pressed into a simple hole, with the lip sitting out on the surface. And they're on the back, anyway, right?

I got six larger ferrules for the back, and something called 'top ferrules' to dress up the front where the strings come through the body. I'm thinking the first hole, the one all the way through, needs to be the exact diameter as these top ferrules, so the string, when pushed through the bottom, won't snag under the ferrule.

Thanks for the tip on the spot face drill bits, I'll find some.

GG

Okay, got started this weekend, see the pics below.
I got both pieces from two different sources on e-bay. The neck was about 22 dollars and the kiln dried ash blank was 15.

I cut the head stock with a jigsaw and sanded it with a sanding block and finished it off with one of those sanding sponges.

I intended to cut out the neck pocket first, so there was some wood around it to support the router, then I would cut out the rest. The router broke, so I jury rigged it, then the bit slipped and routed a channel too deep. So, the fix is to copy the outline to the other side of the block, backwards, so now my mistake is in the portion that will be discarded. I'm off to Lowe's for a new router. Ugh...

GG

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezerSo, the fix is to copy the outline to the other side of the block, backwards, so now my mistake is in the portion that will be discarded. I'm off to Lowe's for a new router. Ugh...

Luckily you could do that. When preparing my body for it's 3rd neck, I was able to correct a problem I'd made fitting the pocket for the first neck. My router jig slipped and I'd carved a bit into one side that I didn't mean to.

If you need to you can fit and glue in some replacement wood, then re-route and you'd never know. Save all your scraps! :)

Looking pretty good so far.

Okay, fixed my old router, then tested it on some scrap wood. Worked great so I cut the neck pocket, all free hand. Worked pretty well and I left a mm on the inside to make a tight fit. I'll be spot sanding that with a Dremel. It's very much like fitting a gun barrel into a stock but you can't use the candle trick since the neck would burn. Also attached is a pic of the whole blank so you can see the planned outline.

All the rest of the parts have been ordered. Chrome sealed tuning machines, two chrome covered humbuckers, other chrome hardware. Looks like I'm going to have to order the long shank pots from a different dealer, but thats all that's left to buy, (plus the finish lacquer and sealer).

Merry Christmas to everyone, btw.

GG

Try AllParts for the pots.

Thanks for the lead on the pots!

Here's the latest. Got the body shape cut out and a bit of rough sanding done. I had no band saw, so I tried a hand held jig saw on the scrap edge of the block to see if it would cut. It cut straight and smooth but VERY s l o w l y. A little bit of burning when I tried to do a radius so I just cut straight to get the excess off, then cut the radius closer, then sanded to finish it up. Pic #8 shows the body shape now, and pic #9 shows how I set up a sander in a vise as a make-shift table sander.

Now sanding and fitting the neck in the pocket. Looks like I might have a small gap between the neck and the face of the body. Any ideas on how to fill it without gluing the neck to the body?


GG

Originally Posted by: GuitardedGeezer
Now sanding and fitting the neck in the pocket. Looks like I might have a small gap between the neck and the face of the body. Any ideas on how to fill it without gluing the neck to the body?

Do you have a pic of how it's fitting? I've read about covering the end of the neck with waxed paper, then filling the gap with epoxy.

Pic number 10 is a shot of the gap between the neck and the body face. Also, I went ahead and used a router and rolled the edges round as shown in pic #11.

GG