Are 12 string guitars playable 6 strings?
I looked around to see if there were any existing threads that commented on removing 1 set of strings on a 12 string and playing it. I have seen them set up that way, but I can't recall hearing anyone playing one.
# 1
My interest in the same idea comes from having very thick fingers and as a newbie im experiencing difficulty keeping one finger on one string. The extra space afforded from using 6 strings on a 12 would really help me out. Im shopping for one on ebay so i can try this.
Anyone have any tricks or words of wisdom for someone with fat fingers?
Anyone have any tricks or words of wisdom for someone with fat fingers?
# 2
Originally Posted by: grandpadadI looked around to see if there were any existing threads that commented on removing 1 set of strings on a 12 string and playing it. I have seen them set up that way, but I can't recall hearing anyone playing one.
I tried it many years ago on my old 12 string Yamaha. It worked fine although for me, at the time, the strings were spaced too far apart. I guess if you have large fingers it's worth giving it a try. If it doesn't work, you can always put the other six strings back on.
# 3
Thank you Kevin T., for your rapid response.
EclecticSoul, please keep me informed if you do find a guitar and try it. I have
big fingers also. Presently prefer using a classical style because of the wider neck and softer strings.
EclecticSoul, please keep me informed if you do find a guitar and try it. I have
big fingers also. Presently prefer using a classical style because of the wider neck and softer strings.
# 4
My instructor had me try a classical to see if it was more confortable and it was. The Nut width measured out at 2.25 inches vs the usual 1.75 found on most all other 6 strings. Maybe i need to invent finger extensions that make finger tips thinner...lol
# 5
Be aware that removing those octave strings will greatly reduce the tension on the neck. The truss rod will have to be adjusted, or else the strings are going be resting on the frets. Other than that, it should work out just fine.
# 6
Thanks for that TIP.
Then, would the preferred set of strings to keep be the set on the fingers side (the righthand side set) being closer to the edge of the fretboard?
Then, would the preferred set of strings to keep be the set on the fingers side (the righthand side set) being closer to the edge of the fretboard?
# 7
You don't get to choose.
The notches in the bridge saddle and the nut are sized for the strings. Remove the octave strings, the thinner ones. The B and high E pairs are identical, but you should keep the spacing consistent by removing the same string from each pair.
You will end up with an offset in the strings toward one side of the neck, but that's as good as it gets without replacing both the bridge and the nut with parts that are tailored for 6-string use.
The notches in the bridge saddle and the nut are sized for the strings. Remove the octave strings, the thinner ones. The B and high E pairs are identical, but you should keep the spacing consistent by removing the same string from each pair.
You will end up with an offset in the strings toward one side of the neck, but that's as good as it gets without replacing both the bridge and the nut with parts that are tailored for 6-string use.
# 8
# 9
I also have fat fingers which does make it hard for me as well.I also am a beginner as well an have been playin for about a year.one little trick i learnd is that for making a A chord for example,instead of trying to squeeze all three fingers into that little space try using two fingers to cover the same amount of space.try the same on other chords where space is a problem.its workn for me
# 10
