and im still getting fretbuz on the #10 and 11 fret the bridg hase been sent to the way i like it the action of the strings is close to the neck but im thinking not to close.....to get ride of the fretbuzz i gota raise the action realy realy high to damn high.......so do i have to loosen the truss rode more...or do you guys think its a fret bar problem.....i realy gota get this problem fixed ....its driving me nucking futz.....and evrey time i play a solo and hit the 10 and 11 you here it bad on all strings to......
neck ajusments..HELP!!
i have done a few ajusments allready to my neck on my bcrich warlock
and im still getting fretbuz on the #10 and 11 fret the bridg hase been sent to the way i like it the action of the strings is close to the neck but im thinking not to close.....to get ride of the fretbuzz i gota raise the action realy realy high to damn high.......so do i have to loosen the truss rode more...or do you guys think its a fret bar problem.....i realy gota get this problem fixed ....its driving me nucking futz.....and evrey time i play a solo and hit the 10 and 11 you here it bad on all strings to......
and im still getting fretbuz on the #10 and 11 fret the bridg hase been sent to the way i like it the action of the strings is close to the neck but im thinking not to close.....to get ride of the fretbuzz i gota raise the action realy realy high to damn high.......so do i have to loosen the truss rode more...or do you guys think its a fret bar problem.....i realy gota get this problem fixed ....its driving me nucking futz.....and evrey time i play a solo and hit the 10 and 11 you here it bad on all strings to......
# 1
Without looking at the guitar in person, its really hard to say for sure what the problem may be. But here's a way to at least make sure the neck is ok.
Holding the guitar by the body with the neck pointed away from you, sight along the top of the neck with the fattest string (Low E) at the top. Most if not all guitars should have a small amount of what is known as "relief". This is a very slight curve in the neck of approx 2-3 mm. The direction of the curve is critical. The curve should be (I'm assuming that the Low E string is on top while sighting the neck and that this is a right handed guitar) in the same direction as if you took your left hand and naturally curved your fingers. Of course the curve will be very very subtle.
If the neck curve looks ok ( you can measure from the fret board to the lowest part of the string where you see the base of the curve in the neck) then some other problems could be low or high frets, action TOO LOW
If you dont have some relief, then LOOSING the truss rod will give you some. We are only talking about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time. It can also take several weeks for an adjustment you make today to fully be complete. This is wood and it takes tome to respond. Again 2-3 mm maximum when measured at the lowest point of the curve.
Again without seeing the guitar, its very hard to tell. My advice is if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it. Unless you don't like the guitar.
Sight the neck and describe what you are seeing.
One step at a time
Holding the guitar by the body with the neck pointed away from you, sight along the top of the neck with the fattest string (Low E) at the top. Most if not all guitars should have a small amount of what is known as "relief". This is a very slight curve in the neck of approx 2-3 mm. The direction of the curve is critical. The curve should be (I'm assuming that the Low E string is on top while sighting the neck and that this is a right handed guitar) in the same direction as if you took your left hand and naturally curved your fingers. Of course the curve will be very very subtle.
If the neck curve looks ok ( you can measure from the fret board to the lowest part of the string where you see the base of the curve in the neck) then some other problems could be low or high frets, action TOO LOW
If you dont have some relief, then LOOSING the truss rod will give you some. We are only talking about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time. It can also take several weeks for an adjustment you make today to fully be complete. This is wood and it takes tome to respond. Again 2-3 mm maximum when measured at the lowest point of the curve.
Again without seeing the guitar, its very hard to tell. My advice is if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it. Unless you don't like the guitar.
Sight the neck and describe what you are seeing.
One step at a time
# 2
the bigest part of the curve in the neck is threw the 5 fret to the 8 fret
i dont have fealer gauges to check but from looking at it and pressing down on the low e at the #1 fret and pressing down on the #17 fret
the cleance is less then a match book cover but not by much kinda tappers towrds the 8th.....
im thinking my problem may be a high fret bar can i file or sand a fret bar down with out screwing it up......maybe the 13th fret bar not sure
i say the 13th cuz looking at the neck from the side that one looks rounded or a little high in the center.....i dont wana screw this guitar up i love it other then the fret buzz on the 10th fret now after a few ajusment its allmost out but not good enuf yet ,,and there is no place around town to get it looked at by a pro. so someone let me know about sanding or fileing a fret bar
hers a pic of her....most nights i fall asleep playing
ive repainted it two times allready 3rd times comeing but i gota get something to play while painting it again....maybe a new neck is in order probley the best thing to do
i dont have fealer gauges to check but from looking at it and pressing down on the low e at the #1 fret and pressing down on the #17 fret
the cleance is less then a match book cover but not by much kinda tappers towrds the 8th.....
im thinking my problem may be a high fret bar can i file or sand a fret bar down with out screwing it up......maybe the 13th fret bar not sure
i say the 13th cuz looking at the neck from the side that one looks rounded or a little high in the center.....i dont wana screw this guitar up i love it other then the fret buzz on the 10th fret now after a few ajusment its allmost out but not good enuf yet ,,and there is no place around town to get it looked at by a pro. so someone let me know about sanding or fileing a fret bar
hers a pic of her....most nights i fall asleep playing
ive repainted it two times allready 3rd times comeing but i gota get something to play while painting it again....maybe a new neck is in order probley the best thing to do
# 3
No, you can't really just go and start sanding frets. Mainly because frets are crowned - which means the tops are rounded and the strings actually only touch a very tiny part of the actual fret. If you were to sand the fret, the string would make too much contact and cause a great deal of buzzing and the notes wouldn't ring out properly. You would also likely mess up the radius of the fretboard.
If you are unable to take the guitar in for repair, you can technically do it yourself (if you are somewhat mechanically inclined). But the tools will cost around $60 to do a decent job. At MINIMUM, you will need a radius sanding block that matches your neck radius and a crowning file (both available from Stew Mac).
So, assuming uneven frets is the problem: the first step would be to tape off the fretboard so only the frets are exposed. Then you want to sand the frets even up and down the fretboard (using a straightedge to check it along the way - by the way, you will have to adjust the truss rod so that the wood part of the fretboard is flat first). Start with around 600 grit sandpaper and work your way up to around 1000. After that, you will want to use a black marker and make a lengthwise mark along each fret - this will be your guide for crowning the frets. File the frets evenly from end to end until there is just a TINY unbroken black line across the length of the fret. Do this on all frets. Then lightly sand the frets with about 1500 grit sandpaper (don't use a sanding block - use your finger with fairly light pressure), followed by 0000 steel wool. Following that, I like to use a Dremel with a buffing pad and metal polish to bring the frets to a mirror shine.
This is all assuming that a high fret is your problem...
Not sure where you are located, but if by chance you are in the Chicago area, I do repair work on the side and will do it for a 12 pack... :D
If you are unable to take the guitar in for repair, you can technically do it yourself (if you are somewhat mechanically inclined). But the tools will cost around $60 to do a decent job. At MINIMUM, you will need a radius sanding block that matches your neck radius and a crowning file (both available from Stew Mac).
So, assuming uneven frets is the problem: the first step would be to tape off the fretboard so only the frets are exposed. Then you want to sand the frets even up and down the fretboard (using a straightedge to check it along the way - by the way, you will have to adjust the truss rod so that the wood part of the fretboard is flat first). Start with around 600 grit sandpaper and work your way up to around 1000. After that, you will want to use a black marker and make a lengthwise mark along each fret - this will be your guide for crowning the frets. File the frets evenly from end to end until there is just a TINY unbroken black line across the length of the fret. Do this on all frets. Then lightly sand the frets with about 1500 grit sandpaper (don't use a sanding block - use your finger with fairly light pressure), followed by 0000 steel wool. Following that, I like to use a Dremel with a buffing pad and metal polish to bring the frets to a mirror shine.
This is all assuming that a high fret is your problem...
Not sure where you are located, but if by chance you are in the Chicago area, I do repair work on the side and will do it for a 12 pack... :D
# 4
thanks for the info ill be looking into this more cuz i do infact think i have a few high frets ive been reading alot on neck ajustments and other things of such......well i live in pierre sd would be killer if i did live there lol.....for a 12 pack....thats cheep for the amount of time it would take....lol....
again thanks a bunch for the info....
again thanks a bunch for the info....
# 5
Here is a site relating to fret dressing: http://www.cgsmusic.net/Lessons/Dressing%20the%20Frets%20on%20a%20Classical%20Guitar%20Part%201.htm
If you Google fret dressing you should get a few useful hits.
Truss rod for relief..(I forget the exact measurements but they're available)
then level the frets if necessary.
CYA
If you Google fret dressing you should get a few useful hits.
Truss rod for relief..(I forget the exact measurements but they're available)
then level the frets if necessary.
CYA
Robbo
# 6
