Restringing

Hey guys. Popped my first string on my electric today. Its a Squier Strat. Do I have to remove the whole bridge to get the strings out?

No, just clip the string over the pickgaurd, and you will be able to push the strings out through the backside of the bridge on the back of the guitar. To replace strings you will insert them through the holes on the backside of the bridge where the strings came out. The ball end is to hold them inside the bridge block.\

If you don't have enough string to push it out through the bridge, you will need something to poke in the hole were the string is stuck. Make sure to use something thin enough and long enough to be able to push out the ball end of the broken string. Also make sure to use something that won't break, like a small allen wrench, or a thin metal coat hanger.

Hope that helps you.

Also, when you are putting the string onto the tunning knobs, make sure you put enough on so you have atleast 3 wraps around them, or the string will slip and slide off or come out of tune ever time you play a note.

Just restrung it. Took off that back panel for ease. Im gonna double check to make sure they aint comin off. Thanks guys.

Personally I would recommend restringing all of them at once rather than some at a time when they snap considering that a good set obly cost around 5 bucks also pick up a peg coilers makes things much smoother. Also as far as string brands I absolutely love ernie balls they last pretty long depending on how much you play of course. I play classic rock and blues so my string gauges are thin but they have w/e type you need. Play around with different types before getting hooked on one

Originally Posted by: gogogoPersonally I would recommend restringing all of them at once rather than some at a time when they snap considering that a good set obly cost around 5 bucks also pick up a peg coilers makes things much smoother. Also as far as string brands I absolutely love ernie balls they last pretty long depending on how much you play of course. I play classic rock and blues so my string gauges are thin but they have w/e type you need. Play around with different types before getting hooked on one

Yeah I did em all. They were all pretty bad. I just got the Fenders. No idea on what style or anything. Dont really care right now, just need strings on my guitar so I can play.

You gotta be careful when restringing to tighten the strings in a good order so the string tensions dont warp your neck.

Originally Posted by: gogogoPersonally I would recommend restringing all of them at once rather than some at a time when they snap considering that a good set obly cost around 5 bucks also pick up a peg coilers makes things much smoother. Also as far as string brands I absolutely love ernie balls they last pretty long depending on how much you play of course. I play classic rock and blues so my string gauges are thin but they have w/e type you need. Play around with different types before getting hooked on one

I'm with gogogo - restringing at the same time is a good idea, as you get the balance of tone between strings; but in an emergency one at a time won't kill you!
Also, Ernie Balls, for the price, I've yet to find a brand that beat them - "Regular Slinky" is my typical brand, but my co-guitarists goes for the gauge higher (can't remember the name of them now).

If you're happy with Fender's, stick with them - strings, like everything else, are subjective and a matter of personal preference. I've tried Gibson strings and was quite please with them, but I found them hard to get hold of in my area. At least Ernie Ball strings can be found in most "repertable music stores" so even if you're not a massive fan of them, they're not a bad fall back.

Originally Posted by: magicninjaYou gotta be careful when restringing to tighten the strings in a good order so the string tensions dont warp your neck.

I really feel like this is an old superstition. While it would seem to make sense, after 17years playing, and 8 years as a luthier/tech, I have never seen a neck warped due to improper string changes. Usually it is do to improper storage like a cold damp basement, or a bakery hot car trunk. I perform numerous string changes every day, and I allways take 'em all off at the same time so I can clean the guitar, and have yet to have a problem. However, if it makes you feel better to change each string one at a time, by all means continue on....it definately won't hurt.

Originally Posted by: 3fingeredbluesI really feel like this is an old superstition. While it would seem to make sense, after 17years playing, and 8 years as a luthier/tech, I have never seen a neck warped due to improper string changes. Usually it is do to improper storage like a cold damp basement, or a bakery hot car trunk. I perform numerous string changes every day, and I allways take 'em all off at the same time so I can clean the guitar, and have yet to have a problem. However, if it makes you feel better to change each string one at a time, by all means continue on....it definately won't hurt.

As someone who's worked in this area, would you say the "myth" is borne out of "the old day's" when guitar's had poorer trust rods, etc.? Or is it just a matter of the blind leading blind?

I tend to replace a full set one at time rather than stripping them all down, but this is more habit from my first guitar which had a floating tremelo, so it was to help try and stay in tune more than concern for damaging the neck. I still do this with my fixed bridges, but, as I say, it's more a matter of habit than concern.

Originally Posted by: WilldridgeAs someone who's worked in this area, would you say the "myth" is borne out of "the old day's" when guitar's had poorer trust rods, etc.? Or is it just a matter of the blind leading blind?

I tend to replace a full set one at time rather than stripping them all down, but this is more habit from my first guitar which had a floating tremelo, so it was to help try and stay in tune more than concern for damaging the neck. I still do this with my fixed bridges, but, as I say, it's more a matter of habit than concern.

I would say probably a little of both...and you are right that a floating trem is different beast. I have the luxury of some tools and wedges that will hold a floating trem in place while I do a string change.

so, if taking all the strings off at once, and putting them all back on (which is what I've always done) don't warp the neck... then does changing string gauge? even a small one, like from 10-46 to 10-52, which is the gauge change that I did last night as I finally took the stock strings off my gibson (I don't know how, but I have magical powers to make strings last for months! lol)

also, another quick question that I have for my luthier friend, how do you adjust the action on a gibson? it has some wierd thing that looks like you could just turn it with your thumb, but I tried, and it hurts... it's almost like you need a wrench, but I don't want to grind the little thread like things off of the thumb-screwy thing (professional terms, I know)

Originally Posted by: 6strngs_2hmbkrsso, if taking all the strings off at once, and putting them all back on (which is what I've always done) don't warp the neck... then does changing string gauge? even a small one, like from 10-46 to 10-52, which is the gauge change that I did last night as I finally took the stock strings off my gibson (I don't know how, but I have magical powers to make strings last for months! lol)

also, another quick question that I have for my luthier friend, how do you adjust the action on a gibson? it has some wierd thing that looks like you could just turn it with your thumb, but I tried, and it hurts... it's almost like you need a wrench, but I don't want to grind the little thread like things off of the thumb-screwy thing (professional terms, I know)

If you want to go up in gauge, you should make sure that the beefier strings fit well in the nut slots, and they may have to be *slightly* enlarged to acomodate the larger radius of the string. You need to make sure that the strings can pass through the nut slots without feeling too tight in the slots. If it is too tight in the slots, you will have tuning problems and could end up with a busted nut. You may not need to do anything, but make sure. Also make sure that if you do need to file the nut slot larger, that you don't over due it, as a nut slot that is too large can cause buzzing problems. Also, if you decide to do this yourself, you will need to protect the headstock with a few strips of masking tape (preferably blue or green drafting tape as it isn't as sticky as yellow tape and easier on the finish) so that you don't scar the headstock...also make sure to file the slot at an angle so that the highest point of the slot is closest to the finger board. This is called the breaking point and is important for intonation reasons. You really shouldn't need to file downwards making the slot deeper, you just want to make it a *little* wider by using a rocking motion with the file - meaning that as you go back and forth with the file that you gently rock it right to left, because after all, you are just trying to make it wider and therefore would only need to remove a *little* material from the side walls of the slot. See, the goal here is to make the slot wider, not deeper. If you don't, it is possible that you could end up with a broken nut. You can get a set of nut slotting files from Stew-Mac, or Luthier's Mercantile. Also, due to the increased tension of the larger gauge strings, you may need a *slight* truss rod adjustment. And you are on the right track for adjusting your string height with the "thumb-screwy thing"...however, you need to de-tune the guitar before you can make this adjustment, the reason being that the downard pressure caused by the strings at full tension would make it all but impossible to move them unless you were the Hulk. You may need to do this a few times...adjust it a little, and then re-tune to pitch and check it. You can repeat this procedure untill you are satisfied. And finally, after doing all that, you will probably need to re-intonate the guitar, as all these *little* adjustments can cause the intonation to be slightly off.

One more thing, if you are raising the action, make sure to raise the stop peice a little bit. A mistake I see a lot of players make with a stop tail type bridge is having the stop peice too low, which causes far too much pressure to be placed on the bridge peice that the strings pass over. This could lead to, over time, the bridge actually curving downwards towards the guitar body and in some cases I have actually seen them crack. Another good reason is that it puts a lot of pressure on the intonators as well, and can cause the grooves to deepen, and also lead to excessive string breakage.

Now, with that said, if you have any doubts, just take it to the local tech for a setup. Let them know that you are moving up in string gauge and that you want the nut slots checked. None of this should cost any extra money over what you would normally pay for a setup, because these are the things that a tech should just automatically look for.

Good luck 6S2H

P.S.

Even though the drafting tape is less sticky, I like to pat it on my clothing to make it eaven less sticky...it puts a real bummer on your day to pull off some finish when you remove tape. It's possible to do a finish repair, but that is far beyond what I am willing to explain here..(can't give away all the secrets)lol Also make sure to use at least two layers of tape, as it is reall easy to slip if you are not used to doing this.

thank you for all this information... it turns out I figured out the action thing, and I was lowering it some, not raising it. so I don't think the stop bar needs adjusting. the nut fits the strings pretty well. I didn't think that such a slight gauge change would require a truss rod adjustment, but if you think it would need a quarter turn or something, would I need to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise?

otherwise, the guitar is playing much better now with my preferred GHS strings on it. it changed the tone some, for the better. they are easier too bend. I also decided to take into consideration some words that PRS_playa said in another thread, something about not babying a guitar, and actually enjoying it. so, I decided to lower the bridge pickup... and wow... what a difference! it's not as bassy anymore, which is good. it produces a much better tone now then it did before, though it's really not any higher output then my neck pickup, which is a bummer. but it's actually usable now. I was scared of altering my stock guitar, but, now I'm done babying it. and I'm glad, cause it's actually better now. lol.

OH! one last thing, do you think I'd still need that truss rod adjustment, despite the increased string gauge, if I'm tuned down a halfstep to Eb? which is what my whole band is tuned to, so my guitar stays in that tuning 95% of the time. right now I have it in E, but only cause I was trying to stretch the new strings, so I wanted as much tension as possible so they would stretch. but now that they are stretched, I will tune back down before band practice tomorrow night.

thanks so much for all your help 3fingeredblues, you're the best! though you probably find me pretty annoying with all my questions. lol

Originally Posted by: 6strngs_2hmbkrs
OH! one last thing, do you think I'd still need that truss rod adjustment, despite the increased string gauge, if I'm tuned down a halfstep to Eb? which is what my whole band is tuned to, so my guitar stays in that tuning 95% of the time. right now I have it in E, but only cause I was trying to stretch the new strings, so I wanted as much tension as possible so they would stretch. but now that they are stretched, I will tune back down before band practice tomorrow night.

thanks so much for all your help 3fingeredblues, you're the best! though you probably find me pretty annoying with all my questions. lol

You're welcome, and no you're not annoying....we have all been lacking in knowledge at one point or another. If you have a question I can answer, it's no biggie. Everybody should know at least the basics of there instrument, although not everybody has a talent for performong adjustments to their axe, it is still important to at least have some knowledge.


If you were tuning flat w/ the previous gauge strings, then it is a possibility. You are however only going heavier on the bass strings (ala Zakk Wylde) so you may not.
As for the truss rod adjustment, you need to check it to know if you need the adjustment. Turning the t-rod to the right tightens the truss rod, thereby counteracting the foward pulling string tension=straightens the neck
Turning the trus rod to the left loosens the truss rod allowing for more influence from the string tension=more releif, or foward bow

You shouldn't need a lot of releif, just a little.

To check the releif, you will press down w/ your L. hand index finger behind the first fret, and the press down just behind the twelth fret with your R. hand thumb. Now usining your index finger on your R. hand, tap the string at around the 6th fret. Your should hear a little clicking sound, and be able to see a little space. If you hear no clicking, and the string appears to lay on all of the frets, the you need to add relief by loosening the truss rod by turning left, 1/4 turn at a time, and then re-checking it. Conversly, if you can push down quite far on the string before it makes contact, and you can see a large gap between the strings and the top of the frets, then you need to tighten the truss rod by turning it to the right 1/4 turn at a time.

I go by feel on this, after years of doing it on a daily basis, but in general you would want about .010 clearance from the bottom of the strings to the top of the frets. However, since you are using a heavier gauge string, you may require just a hair more relief, like maybe .012. These measurements are for an electric, not a classical, or steel string acoustic. those measurements differ, but that's for another time.

Also, I have noticed that some conventional truss rods need some "settle" time. I like to check them after about 1/2 to 1 full hour after the adjustment to make sure that it hasn't "settled" any. Some do, and some don't.

If your guitar feels comfortable as it is right now, I wouldn't worry about it.

Cheers,
3FB