Originally Posted by: 6strngs_2hmbkrsso, if taking all the strings off at once, and putting them all back on (which is what I've always done) don't warp the neck... then does changing string gauge? even a small one, like from 10-46 to 10-52, which is the gauge change that I did last night as I finally took the stock strings off my gibson (I don't know how, but I have magical powers to make strings last for months! lol)

also, another quick question that I have for my luthier friend, how do you adjust the action on a gibson? it has some wierd thing that looks like you could just turn it with your thumb, but I tried, and it hurts... it's almost like you need a wrench, but I don't want to grind the little thread like things off of the thumb-screwy thing (professional terms, I know)

If you want to go up in gauge, you should make sure that the beefier strings fit well in the nut slots, and they may have to be *slightly* enlarged to acomodate the larger radius of the string. You need to make sure that the strings can pass through the nut slots without feeling too tight in the slots. If it is too tight in the slots, you will have tuning problems and could end up with a busted nut. You may not need to do anything, but make sure. Also make sure that if you do need to file the nut slot larger, that you don't over due it, as a nut slot that is too large can cause buzzing problems. Also, if you decide to do this yourself, you will need to protect the headstock with a few strips of masking tape (preferably blue or green drafting tape as it isn't as sticky as yellow tape and easier on the finish) so that you don't scar the headstock...also make sure to file the slot at an angle so that the highest point of the slot is closest to the finger board. This is called the breaking point and is important for intonation reasons. You really shouldn't need to file downwards making the slot deeper, you just want to make it a *little* wider by using a rocking motion with the file - meaning that as you go back and forth with the file that you gently rock it right to left, because after all, you are just trying to make it wider and therefore would only need to remove a *little* material from the side walls of the slot. See, the goal here is to make the slot wider, not deeper. If you don't, it is possible that you could end up with a broken nut. You can get a set of nut slotting files from Stew-Mac, or Luthier's Mercantile. Also, due to the increased tension of the larger gauge strings, you may need a *slight* truss rod adjustment. And you are on the right track for adjusting your string height with the "thumb-screwy thing"...however, you need to de-tune the guitar before you can make this adjustment, the reason being that the downard pressure caused by the strings at full tension would make it all but impossible to move them unless you were the Hulk. You may need to do this a few times...adjust it a little, and then re-tune to pitch and check it. You can repeat this procedure untill you are satisfied. And finally, after doing all that, you will probably need to re-intonate the guitar, as all these *little* adjustments can cause the intonation to be slightly off.

One more thing, if you are raising the action, make sure to raise the stop peice a little bit. A mistake I see a lot of players make with a stop tail type bridge is having the stop peice too low, which causes far too much pressure to be placed on the bridge peice that the strings pass over. This could lead to, over time, the bridge actually curving downwards towards the guitar body and in some cases I have actually seen them crack. Another good reason is that it puts a lot of pressure on the intonators as well, and can cause the grooves to deepen, and also lead to excessive string breakage.

Now, with that said, if you have any doubts, just take it to the local tech for a setup. Let them know that you are moving up in string gauge and that you want the nut slots checked. None of this should cost any extra money over what you would normally pay for a setup, because these are the things that a tech should just automatically look for.

Good luck 6S2H

P.S.

Even though the drafting tape is less sticky, I like to pat it on my clothing to make it eaven less sticky...it puts a real bummer on your day to pull off some finish when you remove tape. It's possible to do a finish repair, but that is far beyond what I am willing to explain here..(can't give away all the secrets)lol Also make sure to use at least two layers of tape, as it is reall easy to slip if you are not used to doing this.