Are firmer strings recommended on an electric if doing drop-d tuning?

Hi,
I have a Washburn Wi-14 Electric. I bought it at Sam Ash, and had it professionally setup buy their guitar tech. I had him install D'Addario XL (Extra Light) strings since I was, and still am a beginner. I have found that particularly the Low E string has a tendency to rattle or vibrate. I looked at all of the frets, and I can't see anywhere that it's actually touching. The action was pretty high on this guitar when I got it, and it was better after the tech worked his magic.

Anyway, today I was messing around with "Never too Late" by Three Days Grace, and tuned it for Drop-D. This made the E string about 10 times worse.

So, my question is, would a set of Light, or Medium-Light strings solve this, or was my guitar improperly setup? The XL's I have on it now are VERY light. I don't have calluses yet, and it's even easy to hold down the High E, on the 1st fret. Something I can't say for my acoustic with Super Slinkys (I believe they're Light, 11-52 gauge).

You could give 'custom lights' or hyrbrid strings a try.
For instance, I always use Dean Markley Custom Lights...

9, 11, 16, 26, 36, 46

It gives you a light gauge on the top strings and a slightly heavier gauge on the bottom ones. (also good for guys like me who tend to play really heavy rock but need lighter strings for tapping and leads)

You could also try just raising your bridge on the bottom strings slightly.
However, don't forget to redo your intonation afterwards.

Thanks for the reply.
I had a string break when I was changing a set of Blue Steel strings on my Acoustic. Threw Some Ernie Ball Super Slinky (11-52) on there with no problem. They are classified as a custom gauge light, Extra Slinky's are Extra Light.

The electric has D'Addario XL's. I just checked, and they are 10-46's. I can do basic things like changing strings, but I don't think I want to mess up the intonation. :) Is there a good tutorial on doing this, as well as adjusting the bridge?

I did a video a couple of years ago so it's kinda lo-def, but I think it gets the point across.
Setting intonation is relatively easy and should be done on a regular basis if you're changing string gauges or bridge height.

http://guitartricks.com/lesson.php?input=9407


note: this lesson was actually hidden from view because of the low video quality but I've made it temporarily visible for ya.
Probably best if you download it to your computer cause it'll end up getting hidden again until I get a chance to update it to hi-def.

Yes it is low-fi, but still very useable. Webcams have come a long way, haven't they?

You mention that the 12th fret should be 1 octave higher. This would be the same note, but a different pitch, correct? If it's the E string, it should also be dead on E at the 12th fret?

This is a closeup pic of the grey version of my guitar (grabbed from ebay). How would I raise the bridge on this setup?
http://i13.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/04/05/e510_3.JPG

It's honestly hard to tell from the pic... but it looks like each string has it's own individual method of raising and lowering them.

I'm just guess here, but it looks like the screwes at the back are for intonation and the two small screws over each string might be for raising each string independently using an allan key or something.

The other 4 screws are what attaches the bridge to the guitar so you don't want to touch those.


Like I said though, I'm not familiar with that bridge setup so maybe try Googling the guitar manufacturer for more info.
Usually, decent quality guitar manufacturers have ideal string height recommendations along with instructions on intonation, bridge and d truss rod adjustments.

Looks like ya have nice pickups btw. I added on a handmade one of those to the bridge pickup on my Gibson L6S and it made a world of difference to the overdrive, sustain and crunch. :)


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For the one octave thing. If you finger a note exactly 12 frets higher it will be the same note just one octave higher.
So if you have your bottom E string lowered to a D. (Drop D Tuning) If you finger the 12th fret it will also be a D, but just an octave higher.
To get an E note you'd press on the 2nd or 14th frets.

Yes, It looks like each string has it's own adjustment. It came with two allen keys for adjusting various things. I don't think I want to loosen the screws over the strings, and have the string pop out in my face. Is it best to loosen the string, adjust the intonation, then retune? Or, can it safely be done with tension on the strings? I think I'll just try changing the strings out with some Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys, and mess with the intonation.

There is no manual in site(I don't even think it came with one), and I can't find any info on the Washburn site regarding recommended settings.

Looking at the tutorial I found below, It appears I have a Strat Style Floating Bridge. After reading the note that both top screws should be adjusted so each saddle is level, it might be hard to get them adjusted perfectly in such close quarters. I guess as long as I turn them both equally, I will be ok. I only really need to raise the Low E string anyway.
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/action.htm

Could a bowed neck cause the buzzing I'm experiencing? It's kind of hard to believe this thing was professionally setup, if its this out-of-whack.

The pickups are fairly nice, but I've heard of people seeing major improvements by upgrading them to Dimebuckers, or even the cheap LACE pickups that MusiciansFriend sells.

I don't think you need to loosen the strings before doing the intonation.
It kinda defeats the purpose since you need to hear the sound as you're adjusting it. Plus, loosening the strings will slightly alter the tension on the neck and affect the results.

Must have only been the Floyd Rose bridge that it applied to. Thanks for all the advice, I think I might give it a shot tonight, before I force myself to change the strings :)

I do have one final question. Can an old set of strings leave me with one string that just won't intonate? I have all of the other strings nearly perfect, but I can't get the intonation to change on the G string. I even tightened the saddle twice as far back as the rest of them, and it did not change at all.

Could it just be that the strings are old? I've probably had the guitar for 6 or 8 months. I've heard everywhere from 2 weeks, to 3 months as a recommended string change interval.

BTW, the intonation on the Low E string was WAY off. The rest were just slightly off. I also raised the saddle on the G string, and there's no more buzzing.

Thanks again for all of the help. Without it, I would have probably ended up paying a Luthier.

Definitely.
Always intonate with brand new strings.

As far as how often to change, it kinda depends on what you're using your guitar for.

When I'm playing live I change them every night (saves me the worry of having a string break in the middle of a song)

In the studio just for general everyday rehearsals or messing around I'll just leave them on until one breaks then change them all.

If I'm recording a new song or doing a bunch of Guitar Tricks videos, I'll put on new ones get the best sound. I'll also clean the fretboard and use a little lemon oil on it because my guitar's over 30 years old and majorly drying out.

Cool I was unaware of this and I have just changed my strings...sooo intonations setup is next :)

Ah to be a noob lol :p