http://www.geocities.com/fanlee_rhs/Paraproj61001.htm
CYA.
Robbo
Some build pics..
# 1
About the wiring:
Check out >Guitar Nuts before you go making the same ground-loop mistakes that a lot of guitar builders are still inflicting on us.
Control wiring jig:
Tape a piece of heavy cardborard to the top of the guitar. Use a pencil to trace the hole locations on the cardboard from inside the control cavity. Cut the holes through the cardboard, and mount the controls and the jack. Make sure you have them on the right side of the cardboard! You can now install any interconnecting wires.
Check out >Guitar Nuts before you go making the same ground-loop mistakes that a lot of guitar builders are still inflicting on us.
Control wiring jig:
Tape a piece of heavy cardborard to the top of the guitar. Use a pencil to trace the hole locations on the cardboard from inside the control cavity. Cut the holes through the cardboard, and mount the controls and the jack. Make sure you have them on the right side of the cardboard! You can now install any interconnecting wires.
# 2
Thanks LATS.
I have a question.
Martin Koch installs a resistor & capacitor in parallel in the 'path' from the earth lug of the output jack to the 'common ground point' as shock protection.
The Guitar Nuts guide has a capacitor form a pot to the 'common ground point' as shock protection if I read it right.
Are they equivalent and if not which is 'better'?
TIA.
I have a question.
Martin Koch installs a resistor & capacitor in parallel in the 'path' from the earth lug of the output jack to the 'common ground point' as shock protection.
The Guitar Nuts guide has a capacitor form a pot to the 'common ground point' as shock protection if I read it right.
Are they equivalent and if not which is 'better'?
TIA.
Robbo
# 3
The GuitarNuts circuit places a capacitor between the jack shell ground connection and the single-point ground of the guitar controls. I find that this reduces the effectiveness of the grounding, resulting in more noise than without the cap. Both times that I tried it, I took the cap out. I don't see how installing a resistor in parallel with the cap would help.
The intent is to protect you from establishing a current path through your body if your amp, or someone else's rig (like the PA) has the 'hot' and 'neutral' lines swapped around.
I use a simple line-checker to verify that the AC mains are proper. You can get one at a hardware store or an electrical supply shop for a few bucks. Something you should always have in your kit.
BTW: That picture of the spray-can being used as a clamping caul reminded me of some of the things in the Darwin Awards website. :eek: I'm gald you're still with us, mate!
The intent is to protect you from establishing a current path through your body if your amp, or someone else's rig (like the PA) has the 'hot' and 'neutral' lines swapped around.
I use a simple line-checker to verify that the AC mains are proper. You can get one at a hardware store or an electrical supply shop for a few bucks. Something you should always have in your kit.
BTW: That picture of the spray-can being used as a clamping caul reminded me of some of the things in the Darwin Awards website. :eek: I'm gald you're still with us, mate!
# 4
Originally Posted by: LordathestringsBTW: That picture of the spray-can being used as a clamping caul reminded me of some of the things in the Darwin Awards website. :eek: I'm gald you're still with us, mate!
:D It was a used can. The diameter was perfect. :D
Robbo
# 5
