Originally Posted by: hunter60For whatever reason, I can't keep the G string intonated. The other 5, no problem. I get the G set up right, play for a while, put it down, come back 1/2 later and it's off again.
I tune to the open and then tune on the 12th by adjusting the string length. Is this the right way? I've read about this method in several places but if there's a better way, I'm all ears.
Any thoughts?
Mark Pav made valid points, but didn't mention dressing the nut properly. Just about EVERY new production guitar that has come through my shop lately has suffered from an ill-dressed nut. The strings aren't breaking cleanly over the front edge, the transition from the break and the back of the nut isn't smooth and a flowing curve toward the tuners, etc.
All of this needs to be addressed for stable tuning and proper intonation. If the string isn't breaking at the very edge of the front of the nut, you'll have chronic intonation issues. If the slots in the nut aren't cut cleanly, you'll suffer from 'pinging' as you tune, and general tuning instability.
Since you're in the process of learning to work on guitars, it would be a good idea to start at the very beginning of the string path, and work your way through the entire guitar. The holes in the trem where the strings pass through and anchor, should be burr-free and smooth. The bridge saddles should also be smooth, stable and snug......make sure the tension springs behind each saddle aren't too short and rattling loosely......that's a tone killer, and very common on newer budget guitars where the 'bean counters' have determined that shorter bridge saddle springs = more profit. Argh!
With the string nut properly dressed, you'll need to check the tuners themselves. Are all of the fasteners snug? Is each string pulling cleanly to each post? Is there enough downward pressure over the nut?
Finally, no two guitars will be the same, so it's important to know different ways of setting intonation....
First, you should set the action and neck relief. Neck relief should be checked at the 7th fret, with the low 'E' tuned to pitch, fretted at the 1st and 17th frets, and the truss rod set to give you a reading somewhere between .005-.015. Neck relief is very subjective, but that's a good starting point. Some pick lightly and prefer ultra-low action and an arrow-straight neck. Others really like to dig in with a heavy pick, prefer medium to high action, and absolutely NO fret buzz. String action is subjective, and yours or your customers preferences need to be taken into account. Those are absolutely the first steps.
Second, check the action at the first fret with each string resting open (not fretted). The action at the first fret, as the string leaves the nut, should be in the neighborhood of .016-.020 (or slightly higher, depending on the owner's playing style). If the slots are too tall, you'll need to dress them down to get the nut action in that range. If the action is already too low at the first fret, you need to install a new nut. Period. Anything less is a compromise. ***One important thing to keep in mind*** - if the action is too tall at the nut/first fret, your notes and chords at the first couple of frets will sound out-of-tune due to the fact that your bending the strings down to the fretboard at a sharp angle right there close to the nut. Lower nut action will help remedy this.
You can now adjust the intonation -
Tuning the string open and then fretting at the 12th fret is a good starting point, but there are variables. First of all, when you press the string down to the 12th fret, you are bending the string out of its plane of travel = in other words, you're already bending it sharp. I prefer to check a string's intonation open, and at the 5th, 12th and 17th frets. This will give you a more accurate reading of the entire neck. Simply playing a harmonic at the 12th fret is NOT a good way to check or adjust your intonation. I now it sounds strange, but strings can 'lie' to you, and you can get false readings. You'll need to actually 'fret' the note to get an accurate intonation reading.
There are so many variables. How close are the pickup's magnetic polepieces to the strings??.....the magnets WILL affect the strings elliptical oscillation pattern if they are too close to the strings. How worn are the fret crowns? If the tops look like a school bus' roof, your intonation will be approximate, at best. Are the strings nickel-plated, or pure nickel wound? I have found that SOME guitars simply will not intonate well with nickel-plated strings. The higher your standards (or your customer's), the more variables, and the more you need to know.
Good luck, and I hope that some of this info helps,
Mike
Text revised - 1/1/09
Forrester Kustoms, LLC
Guitar Repair & Service
Baltimore, Maryland
(443) 722-6938
