On the east coast six footer aren't the most common waves... meaning your lucky to get any height on waves. So "don't ever let life pass" you by. Surfing is a part of my life a major part :D.
Also, poems and songs don't just mean one thing. They mean many different things to different people. The "song has nothing to do with surfing", maybe no to you, but to me it did. So don't be so offensive about some1s explantion of a song or poem... as to what it means to them.