I am new so I am sorry if this is not posted in ther right area. Just wandering if it is possible to put pickup covers on a les paul classic antique? the guitar has uncovered pickups on it now and I like the way covered ones look. Will it affect the sound quality. Any help is appreiciated. Thank you

Yep.

You buy them, take your strings off, and put them on over the pickups - they slide on. Make sure that the holes go over the screw magnets so those poke through.

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Thank you bunches. Will they affect sound quality? Thank you.

I'm also curious to find an answer to ScottySLO's question about putting non-Fender humbuckers in a Tele. I myself would like to build a 72 Deluxe Tele replica from Warmoth with Seymour Duncans and a Strat-style hardtail bridge. Do I need to get the trembucker mod to get the proper pole spacing?

P.S. This guide was really informative. Thanks!

I was about to post a topic asking how to fit my D'Marzio super distortion pickups to my BC rich Warlock. Although the answer was obvious, this thread just gave me the confidence to start cutting the BC Rich humbuckers out. I just hope the wires are all the same colour. Now I can put the bc Rich ones into a cheapy Les Paul copy I have, but I need to lower the action, do I need to shave the frets to avoid that annoying fret buzz that comes with cheap guitars?

I would try not to. Also, I would not say that cheap guitars is the only guitar that causes fret buzz. If you lower your action too much, the strings are going to buzz. Also, you can check the contour of the neck. Before filing down your frets, check your neck.

Cheap guitars can be setup to be very nice playing guitars. I have a Kramer Striker I just bought. Out of the box, it wasn't bad, but spending some time setting things up on it has resulted in an awesome playing guitar.

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One more thing I think I would add. There are different wattage of soldering irons. I use a 15 watt iron to solder the wires so it does not get the device (pot or whatever) too hot and does damage. Count to 5 and get off and let it cool down, should keep you out of trouble.

Also, I carefully use a 25 watt iron to solder the grounds to the metal cases. The case acts like a heat sink meaning it works like a radiator on a car making the heat go away. You can quickly heat up the case, solder the gound, and be done with it if you use a 25 watt iron. A lower wattage iron can be frustraiting for the grounds. And remember to always clean the metal by sanding or scratching or the solder will not stick to it very well if at all.

If it seems like your iron won't melt the old solder very well, try adding some new solder by mixing it in. If this still does not melt the solder very well, perhaps you need a hotter iron or perhaps the iron is defective, or you might have the wrong solder, meaning, you might need more lead in the mix. I use a 60/40 mix with a diameter of 0.022 inch for the terminals. A larger diameter solder for the grounds on the cases might be easier.

Always use your soldering iron to shrink the heat shrink. Start in the middle and work your way to the outside. If there is moisture in the air, this will keep from trapping the moisture inside the heat shrink which can cause noise in your electrical signal.

If you have a terminal hole that is soldered over so you can't stick the new wires through it, try a tooth pick. Just stick the tooth pick through the hole when the solder is liquidfied, remove the iron, and keep the tooth pick in the hole until the solder becomes solid again.

Guess it ended up being more that one more thing. Sorry. I felt it was important to the beginners.